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CARROT
Planting : Carrots (Daucus
carota) are cool-season plants that grow best at average
temperatures between 60 and 65 F. The optimum soil temperature for seed
germination is 55 to 75 F. Seeds will not germinate above 95 F. It is
important to plant carrots early enough in the spring to ensure that the
crop is harvested before early summer. Carrots near maturity that are
allowed to remain in the garden under high temperature conditions tend
to develop a strong flavor and roots that are coarse and fibrous.
Carrots prefer loamy or sandy soil with a soil pH of 5.8
to 6.5. They reach smooth perfection only in good-textured soil free of
stones and clods. When grown in heavy clay soils, the carrot roots will
grow poorly and they may be forked or misshaped.
Plant carrots in rows 12 to 18 inches
apart with a quarter-inch between the seeds. Carrot seeds are very
small, and it is difficult to obtain a stand if the soil is crusty. Try
mixing carrot seed with dry sand to get even distribution. Then, instead
of covering with soil, cover the seed 1/8-inch deep with
sawdust, vermiculite or manufactured potting soil. Water the row soon
after planting is complete. This method will allow the seeds to stay wet
and prevent crusting. Thin the carrots to 2 inches between plants when
they are 1 to 2 inches tall.
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PLANTING DATES FOR CARROTS |
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Area |
Spring |
Fall |
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Piedmont |
March 1-15 |
July 1-30 |
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Central |
Feb. 10-28 |
Aug. 1-15 |
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Coastal |
Dec. 15-Jan. 30 |
Aug. 1-20 |
Recommended Cultivars:
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Apache
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Camden
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Chantenay
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Danvers 126
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Orlando Gold.
Fertilizing: It is best to base fertilizer
application on the results of a soil test. Information on soil testing
is available in HGIC 1652,
Soil Testing. If a soil test has not been taken, apply 5-10-10
fertilizer at 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet before planting.
Sidedress the plants when they are 4
inches tall. Sidedress with ammonium nitrate at 1 pound per 100 feet of
row or calcium nitrate at 2 pounds per 100 feet. More frequent
sidedressing may be required if the garden is sandy or if leaching rains
occur.
Watering:
Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. The
garden should be watered in the morning so that the foliage is dry
before dark. Water the garden sufficiently to moisten the soil to a
depth of 6 inches. The critical periods for water are during stand
establishment and root development. If a uniform supply is not provided
for carrots’ growth, cracks, strong flavor and coarseness in the roots
may develop.
Cultural Practices:
Weed control is important, especially during the early stages of
development, because carrots are poor competitors with weeds. Shallow
cultivation and organic mulches are the best methods for weed control in
the home garden. Keep the cultivation shallow to avoid root injury.
Harvest and Storage:
Harvest carrots about 65 to 75 days after planting. Carrots should be
harvested when they reach the desired size. Store them at 33 F and high
humidity to prevent wilting. Bunched carrots (plants with tops on) can
be stored for about 10 to 14 days. Carrots with tops removed can be
stored for four to six months under optimum conditions.
Problems: Insect and disease problems are usually
minor for carrots when grown in the home garden. However, seed should be
obtained from a reputable source to minimize the chance of any
seed-transmitted diseases.
Six-spotted leafhoppers can be a problem on carrots,
partly because they transmit a disease known as carrot yellows. The
parsley worm, which is the larval stage of an attractive swallowtail
butterfly, will feed on carrot leaves but the damage is seldom severe.
A fungal disease, called Alternaria
blight, causes spots on the leaves. Root-knot nematodes can also be a
problem.
BEET
Planting : Beets (Beta
vulgaris) are cool-season plants that grow best at temperatures
between 60 and 65 F. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination
is 55 to 75 F.
Beets prefer soil that is loamy or sandy. Hard clay
soils prevent root enlargement. Beets require full sun and will not make
good roots in partial shade. Protect beet seedlings from the wind
because the young plants can rapidly dry out. Plant beets in rows 10 to
30 inches apart and place the seed 1/2 inch deep with about 2 inches
between the seeds.
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PLANTING DATES FOR BEETS |
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Area |
Spring |
Fall |
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Piedmont |
March 1-30 |
Aug. 1-15 |
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Central |
Feb. 1-28 |
Aug. 1-20 |
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Coastal |
Dec. 15-Jan. 30 |
Aug. 1-20 |
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches
tall, thin them to 2 to 3 inches between plants.
Recommended Cultivars
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Detroit Dark Red
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Red Ace
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Red Cloud
Cultural Practices: Beets require full sun for
optimal growth and yield, and cool temperatures will result in the best
red color in beets. Weed control is important, especially during the
early stages of development, because beets are poor competitors with
weeds. Shallow cultivation and organic mulches are the best methods for
weed control in the home garden. Keep the cultivation shallow to avoid
root injury.
Harvest and Storage:
Harvest beets about 50 to 70 days after planting. Beets should be
harvested at 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Beets allowed to get larger
than 2 inches in diameter may be woody. Store them at 40 F and high
humidity to prevent wilting.
Problems: Late planting causes the most frequent
problems in beets. Fewer disease or insect problems occur when they are
planted at the proper time. The most common insect pests of beets are
aphids, leafminers, flea beetles and webworms. Sanitation and crop
rotation should be practiced to avoid pest build-ups.
Cercospora leaf spot is the most
common disease that occurs on beets. Circular spots with reddish brown
or purplish margins are the first signs. Beets are also very susceptible
to damping-off and root-knot nematodes. Beets will develop internal
black spot if soil boron is not adequate.
RADISH
Planting : Radishes (Raphanus
sativus) are fairly easy to grow. They mature anywhere from 21 to 30
days from seeding, depending on soil and air temperatures during their
growing time. For radishes, the warmer it is, the faster they mature.
Radishes prefer cool and moist conditions for best growth. The optimum
temperature is 50 to 65 F. Optimum soil temperature for seed germination
is 45 to 85 F. Radish seed will not germinate when the soil temperature
is above 95 F. Spring-planted radishes should be harvested early. The
flavor of the radish bulb is also dependent on temperature. As a general
rule, the cooler the temperature, the milder the radish. High summer
temperatures cause radishes to become pithy and develop a strong flavor.
Sandy to sandy loam soils are best for radishes.
Plant radish seed in rows 12 to 24 inches apart and
place the seed ½-inch deep with about 1 inch between seeds. Radish can
be broadcast-seeded in a 12-inch bed and then thinned when plants are in
the one to two "true leaf" stage. Radishes are some of the fastest
germinating seeds and should emerge in just a few days.
Plant every seven to 10 days during the recommended
planting periods for a continuous supply of radishes.
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PLANTING DATES FOR RADISHES |
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Area |
Spring |
Fall |
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Piedmont |
Feb. 15-Mar.15 |
Sept. 1-30 |
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Central |
Feb. 1-28 |
Sept.1-Oct.25 |
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Coastal |
Jan. 1-Mar.1 |
Sept.1-Nov.1 |
Cultivars:
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Red: Scarlet Globe, Cherry Belle
and Cherriette.
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White: April Cross and Summer Cross
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French Breakfast Type: ‘Red Flame’
Cultural Practices:
Cultural practices for growing radish are the same as for growing beets
and carrots. Moisture stress during development of the radish will cause
it to have a strong flavor and be woody or pithy. Radishes planted in
late spring will bolt (form a flower stalk) as the temperatures get warm
in late spring and early summer. Radishes that have bolted have a strong
flavor and are pithy.
Harvest and Storage:
Radishes will be ready to harvest in about 3 to 4 weeks after planting.
These plants develop very rapidly; therefore, check the plantings
frequently to prevent them from becoming too large to use. The round red
radish should be harvested before it is an inch in diameter. Larger
radishes will usually have a strong flavor and will be pithy. White
radishes should be harvested before they are about ¾ inch in diameter.
Radishes can be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks.
Problems: Insect problems that may be encountered
are flea beetles, aphids and various caterpillars, such as cabbage
loopers and diamondback moths. These will feed on the radish leaves.
Cutworms can be a problem for seedlings. They will feed
on the surface of the bulb. In small gardens, barriers around plants can
prevent serious cutworm damage. By encircling individual plants with
cardboard or metal "collars" pressed one inch into the soil, gardeners
put up "fences" the cutworms cannot cross.
Diseases are usually not a problem
when radishes are grown in the home garden. Seed should be obtained from
a reputable source.
Excerpted from Home Vegetable Gardening, EC 570,
2002.
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